Skin Therapy 101
What you see on the surface starts much deeper. There are 4 main changes in the skin that happen as we mature into aging skin. They are cell turnover time, decreased barrier lipids, more pigmentation, and changes in the dermal structure. Below find some lifestyle advice and daily ingredient solutions.
Cell turnover time
20's = 14-25 days
30's = 30 days
40's =40 days
50's = 50 days+
As you can see the more mature our skin gets the more we need to help it's natural cell renewal process along with professional and home exfoliation. Here are 3 daily solutions you can do to speed up cell turnover:
1. Stimulate cell renewal: use a safe form of Retinol and acid free smoothing agents- Algae, Yeast, Glucosamine, Urea.
2. Exfoliate to remove cell buildup: Lactic Acid (exfoliating, hydrating, brightening) and Salicylic Acid (dissolves sebum, oil)are two really great alpha/beta hydroxy acids. Magnesim Oxide, Silica, and Sodium Bicarbonate are all better options for a physical exfoliant, like a scrub, rather than seed kernels that nick the skin to exfoliate.
3. Hydrate: Hyaluronic Acid ( a humectant that binds water to the skin). The skin needs a certain amount of water in the skin in order to function properly and "let go of" dead skin cells.
Decreased Barrier
There are 2 main changes in barrier function that happens are we mature. They are: decreased barrier lipid production and water loss. Here are 2 daily solutions you can do to restore the skin's barrier:
1. Boost antioxidant and flavonoid levels to fight against free radical damage: Argan oil, Rosehip seed oil, Rose oil
2. Reduce water loss with emollient plant lipids: Shea Butter, Evening primose oil, Borage seed oil, Sunflower seed oil, Carrot seed oil, Jojoba seed oil, Sesame seed oil
More Changes in Pigmentation
With accumulative UV-induced sun damage, weakened capillary walls and decreased light reflection due to less collagen; it's no surprise our skin takes on a molted skin pattern. Here are 3 daily solutions you can do to improve skin clarity:
1. Target Melanin pigment: Rice Bran, Phytic acid, Sunscreens, Retinol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Oligopepitide-34
2. Strengthen capillary walls: Argan oil, Red Raspberry, Rose Flower oil, Licorice Root extract, Cucumber, Honey
3. Target decreased collagen production: Arginine, Lysine Polypeptide, Glucoamine HCL
Changing Dermal Structure
Our skin losses fullness and volume as our skin matures due to decreased oxygenation and circulation, deceased collagen and elastin production and damage to the dermal structure. Here are 3 daily solutions you can do to boost collagen and improve dermal density:
1. Boost collagen production: Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide + Pamlmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyrate, Palitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
2. Prevent collagen cross-linking(wrinkles): White tea, Tocopherol Acetate, Argan oil, Rosehip seed oil, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Glucosamine HCL, Glycine Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Pearl
3. Reduce Collagen degradation: Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Glycine Soy Protein, Alaria Esculenta
Theses daily ingredient solutions can be found in Dermalogica's segmented line AGESmart.
Adult acne characteristics are associated with combination skin, often has increased sensitivity, heals more slowly, is often on the jaw line, chin, and neck, with stubborn post-acne marks of pigmentation. But what really causes acne breakouts in adults...STRESS!
Lets discuss the 4 main factors that contribute to acne breakouts: overproduction of sebum (oil), accumulation of dead skin cells, bacteria, and inflammation/scarring.
Overproduction of sebum
Chronic stress, Hormones, Metabolism, Diet, Cosmetics, Impaired barrier function and Environmental factors all play a role in sebum production. Any shift in one or more of these can boost your skin's oil production into overdrive setting the stage for acne development. This causes excess oil to spill on the skin's surface, acting as a binder that holds on to dead, shedding skin cells. The jaw line is most sensitive to this shift. Here are a few lifestyle and daily solutions to help you regulate your skin's sebum production:
1. Double cleanse your skin to ensure it's clean
2.Awareness! Adjust your regimen pre-menstrual
3.Make some dietary adjustments like reducing dairy and wheat intake
4.Manage your stress
5.Change up your skin care routine with environmental changes
6. Add ingredients like Niacinamide, Yeast extract, Horse chestnut, Licorice, Pathenol, Zonc Gluconate, Caffeine, Biotin, Cinnamon Bark and Sarcosine to help reduce and regulate sebum.
Accumulation of dead skin cells
When too many dead skin cells combine with excess oil, they form a material that clogs the hair follicle. Here are some lifestyle and daily solutions to help normalize skin cell buildup:
1.Introduce regular exfoliation into your home care routine
2. Stay away from dehydrating products like astringents and self-tanners
3. Watch your insulin activity
4. Stay hydrated! Skin cells cannot function properly if there's not enough water
5. Ingredients to help normalize skin cells include: Salicylic acid, Sulfur, Lactic acid, Lactobacillus Ferment, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Hyaluronic acid, Sodium PCA and Aloe Vera
Bacteria
Clogged hair follicles and increased follicular irritation causes inflammation and are the perfect breeding ground for Propionibacterium Acnes bacteria, a primary acne culprit that normally lives on skin. Here are some tips to help you fight off bacteria:
1.Keep your hands, phone, pillow cases and eyeglasses clean on a regular basis
2. Cleanse skin right after excercise or sweating
3. Try not to pick or squeeze breakouts. Red means no!!! There's inflammation present.
4. Take supplements to boost healing like Zinc, Fish oil, and Vitamin C
5. Ingredients to speed healing are: Capryloyl Glycine, Sarcosine, Sulfur, Zinc Oxide, Tea Tree, Colloidal Silver, Zinc Gluconate, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum
Inflammation/scarring
Rapid bacteria growth can lead to inflammation, redness and swelling, resulting in acne. Inflammation is the single most important factor in scarring. There are 3 types of acne scarring; Erythematous macule, Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and Pitting. Most take 3-18 months to heal depending on the severity of infection and depth of dermal tissue damage.
These daily ingredient solutions can be found in Dermalogica's segmented line MediBac
Pigmentation is probably the most difficult skin condition to treat because soooo many factors go into it's cause. Genetic's, Hormones, Inflammation, and Environmental triggers all play role. Below find some daily advice and ingredient solutions to help prevent and treat pigmentation.
Genetic Influences
Genetics determine two factors when pigmentation is concerned: the ratio of melanin produced and the rate at which our skin ages.The melanocyte cells will start to diminish by 6-8% every decade from the age about 30. This causes a change in skin color as pigment distribution becomes progressively more erratic. Here are 2 daily solutions:
1. Protect your skin daily from UV: SPF, Oleosome technology, Vitamin C
2. Exfoliate regularly to improve cell renewal: Phytic acid, Retinol, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin fruit extract, Vigna Aconitifolia (moth bean) seed extract, Strelitzia Nicolai (giant white bird of paradise) seed extract
Hormones
Melasma is the term used to describe hyperpigmentation that results form a variety of hormonal stimulation's like female reproductive changes, medications, diseases/disorders, and stress. Here are 4 ways to manage these stimulation's and ingredients to help regulate and protect your skin.
1. Add some stress-reducing techniques into your life: Yoga, walking/hiking, meditation, reading, deep breathes, 15 minutes of quiet time
2. Assess medications: Consider alternatives with your doctor if a side effect is pigment inducing.
3. Inhibit Melanin production: Oligopeptide-34 & 51, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phytic acid, Zinc Glycinate, Glycyrrhizate (Licorice), Palmera Palmata (Red Algae), Ascophyllum Nodosum (Brown Algae)
4. Protect daily with SPF
Inflammation
Any form of trauma to the skin whether it's breakouts, infection, injuries or surgical procedures, that have associated inflammation, can result in post-inflammatory pigmentation. Another trigger is Photo-reactive medications and products. Here are 4 daily solutions and ingredients to heal and brighten the skin.
1. Avoid picking, squeezing or aggravaing infected or inflamed skin lesions and allow the skin to heal completely
2.Supplement Zinc, Fish oil and Vitamin C to boost the healing properties in skin
3. Check side effects of medications to prevent photosensitive responses
4. Promote healing and brightening: Zinc oxide, Sulfur, Carob seed extract, Avena Sativa (Oats), Lactic acid, Hydroxypinocolone Retinoate, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate
Environmental Triggers
Recognizing how the environment factors influence our skin's behavior means we can be more adept at regulating and controlling these functions: UV exposure, sunbeds, and pollution. Here are 4 lifestyle and ingredient soultions:
1. Avoid sun exposure when possible. Wear SPF, a wide brim hat, large sunglasses, UPF clothing and swimwear whenever possible.
2. Use moisturizers that contain antioxidants and anti-inflammatories to combat pollution. Argan oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol Acetate, Glucosamine, Licorice, White Tea, and Magnesum Ascorbyl Phosphate are all antioxidants.
3. Restore skin post UV exposure: Japanese Alder, Algae extract, Hyaluronic acid, and Glycolipids
These daily ingredient solutions can be found in Dermalogica's segmented lines PowerBright, AGESmart, Daylight Defense, and Daily Skin Health System.
In order to understand how best to treat and manage skin sensitivity it is essential to have a thorough understanding of why the condition may develop, how biological changes can alter skin function, and the impact this will have. Inflammation is characterized as a cascade of biological events involving the local vascular system, the immune system and various cells within the injured tissue. In case of sensitized skin conditions 3 key issues have been identified that contribute to recognized signs and symptoms of sensitivity: Barrier function, Immunogentic inflammation, and Neurogenic inflammation. Below find some daily advice and ingredient solutions to these three issues.
Barrier Function
Think of your skin like a brick wall, the bricks are skin cells and the mortar is your skin's barrier. That "mortar' consists of ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, additional lipids and other components. This barrier is responsible for keeping debris out, water moisture locked-in, your skin hydrated and balancing out your oil to water surface levels. Here are 5 lifestyle and ingredient solutions to protect and restore your skin's barrier:
1.Use an acid balanced cleanser instead of soap- your skin's ph is between 4.4-5.5
2. Apply emollient moisturizers soon after showering or bathing- this helps to lock-in moisture
3. Avoid mineral oil, nut scrubs, S.D. alcohol, Artificial fragrance and colors, over- exfoliation and hot showers.
4. Add Omega-3's in your diet- this adds in the right fats essential for your skin
5. Ingredients like: Sunflower seed oil, Evening Primrose oil, Avocado, Borage seed oil, Agania oil, and Silicones all protect and restore.
Immunogentic Inflammation
Triggered by the immune system, this inflammatory response is a natural process that serves to remove invaders as well as initiate the healing process. This type of inflammation can be triggered by a foreign substance like pollen or artificial fragrances (histamine triggers) and vasodilation like Rosacea leading to a red and blotchy appearance. The results on the skin can be pain, redness, swelling and heat associated with inflammation. Here are 4 lifestyle and ingredient solutions to reduce redness and puffiness:
1.Reduce stimulant and caffine intake
2.Assess food triggers
3. Monitor aerobic activities and heat inducers like hot showers
4.Ingredients like Oat Avenanthramides Turmeric, Pearl powder, Amber powder, Bisabolol, Ginger, Matricaria extract can promote healing and repair while neutralizing redness.
Neurogenic Inflammation
Neurogenic inflammation is triggered by the nervous system. When an irritant chemical activates nerve sensors, it results in the release of substances called neuropepitides that also trigger the inflammatory cascade. Under normal conditions, these substances play a role in tissue repair; however, they are also found in a variety of painful inflammatory conditions such as psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, hypersensitivity, and rosacea. Here a 5 lifestyle and ingredient solutions to manage and desensitize Neurogentic inflammation:
1. Reduce and manage stress levels
2. Avoid extremes of temperature
3. Don't be rough or aggressive with the skin
4. Reinforce skin barrier to reduce nerve reactiveness
5. Ingredients like Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15 and Boerhavia Diffusa Root extract, Ceramides and Physical Sunscreens to increase the skin's tolerance.
These daily ingredient solutions can be found in Dermalogica's segmented line UltraCalming.
This is a happy time for a mom to be but also can be scary time of the unknown. Here I want to go over some of the skin changes that can happen, some safe and simple steps to take and what ingredients and skin treatments to avoid and which are safe. I hope this brings some peace of mind and helps you to achieve great skin while you are making your bundle of joy!
Safe and Simple Steps
1. Always consult with your OB/GYN prior to a skin treatment or product use
2. Be cautious during your first trimester if you have experienced complications in your pregnancy or previous pregnancies
3. Avoid ingredients and treatments that make you feel uncomfortable
Skin-related changes
Hormones play a huge role in the way your skin changes while you are pregnant. The 4 main changes are Pigmentation, Vascular, Glands and Connective Tissue.
Pigmentation Changes
Melasma (aka pregnancy masque) and Linea Nigra( line down the tummy) are the two most common pigmentation disorders during pregnancy. Here is a list of ingredients safe to treat pigmentation during and after pregnancy:
Vitamin C, Physical Suncreen, Oligopeptides 34-51, Niacinamide, Licorice, Lactic Acid, Kojic Acid, and Azelaic Acid
Vascular Changes
You may notice one or all three of these vascular changes and they are all normal. The Pregnancy glow ( from the extra volume of blood increase) Spider Nevi ( small purple or pink broken capillaries) and Palmar erythema ( pink or red palms).
Gland Changes
You may notice your oil production increasing and/or an increase in sweat glands. Here are some ingredients that are safe to use to control breakouts and oily skin:
Niacinamide, Colloidal Silver, Lactobacullus Ferment, Benzoyl Peroxide (5% or less), Bentonite and Kaolin.
Connective Tissue Changes
Many women will experience some sort of skin condition called Striae (stretch marks) either on their breasts, buttocks, and tummy. These tears happen in the deeper layers of the skin snd can be quite tender for a while and take up to a year to fade in color. Here are 3 ingredients to help provide hydration and elasticity to the skin:
Vitamin E, Coco butter, and Hyaluronic acid
Ingredients to Avoid
Retinolds (Vit. A), Isotretinoin, Hydroquinone, Essential oils, and Salicylic acid
Ingredients Considered Safe
Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Sunscreens, Self-tanning agents, Benzoyl Peroxide, Vitamin C, Peptides, and Niacinamide
Treatment Caution and Contraindications
Reflexology, Massage, Heat, Electrcial Modalities, Professional Exfoliation, and your Doctor's Directions
